Chines

Boats come in a variety of different shapes and styles, but one very simple distinction is denoted in the way the hull connects to the topsides. This area is called the "Turn of the Bilge" and can either be a soft turn or a hard corner. Soft turns are called soft chines while hard corners are called hard chines. Each has its own tendencies and characteristics.

Soft chines are easier to tip and roll around. Sailboats tend to have soft chines since they are designed to heel over and sail on one side of their hull.

Hard chines are considered more stable and are less easy to tip and roll. Powerboats tend to have hard chines as they offer more stability in a boat that is designed to stay upright all the time.

From a construction standpoint, chines offer another advantage: they offer a lot of strength and rigidity to the hull.

The chine itself is called a "chine log" and is one of the structural stringers that run the length of a craft. This stringer is the turn of the bilge and is set into the frames so that the planks can lay flush against it.

This stringer really stiffens up the frames of a wooden boat and transmits considerable amounts of load amongst the frames in the area on that side of the hull. Since the frames work more in unison, the frames can actually be spaced further apart and be made considerably smaller than if the hull had soft chines.

Less weight in frames translates into less weight overall. This is yet another reason hard chines are favored on powerboats where speed is the priority and keeping weight down is imperative.

Hard chines also make initial construction and later repairs much simpler. On a hard chine vessel, there are very few curves and the curves that are present tend to be very subtle. This means that the planks follow relatively straight paths and require very little twisting or bending to get into place. Not having to custom contour each plank means that fabrication can proceed much quicker. If you have to replace a rotten strake, fitting the new plank will also be a much easier endeavor, as it will pretty much be a straight strake that runs its length in a flat manner.

The simplicity in construction is all thanks to the chine. The topsides run down straight and meet the chine log where they end. The bottom planks run from the garboard up to the chine where they also end. There is no rounded section that needs to be fitted with scrubbed planks and corners to fair off as you try to blend a curvature into the turn of the bilge. The planks run along until they get to the corner where they simply stop and start again in a new direction without any effort on the part of the builder.

Ease of construction, ease of repair, and greater stability all make hard chine boats desirable powerboats and dinghies for your sailboats.

A Better Way to Cut Battens

One way to make battens is to rip them with a skill saw. This works quickly and will produce a nice set of battens out of a 2x4, but a lot of wood will be lost due to the blades kerf. 

A better way to rip battens is to use a blade with a a narrower kerf, as this will reduce the amount of wood that is turned into saw dust which translates into more wood that gets turned into battens.

To do this, I used a bandsaw setup with a very thin blade with a rip fence. My bandsaw doesn't have a built in rip fence, but this is easily managed by clamping a block of wood to the table at a measured distance from the blade. I chose to rip these battens to 4mm in thickness, yielding many more battens than I could have gotten with a skillsaw.

The distance to the blade is the most important point to measure, as it will determine the width of the batten. The second block was just to help me keep oriented as I was pulling the board after it had been cut on the other side of the bandsaw.

In the end, I was able to get a lot more battens out of an already used 2x4 with the bandsaw. The thicknesses were much more consistent and the waste was minimal. This resulted in more battens and less saw dust!

Tools to Build a Wooden Dinghy

Construction of a wooden dinghy only requires a few tools, some are rather specialized but the rest are general tools that any competent craftsman would have.

In the most basic sense, the tools needed are a drill, saw, wood planer, screw driver, hammer, and clamps.

These very basic tools will let you build a boat with a very basic layout and design. Any intricate cuts or features would be rather difficult to carry out. If you want to build a more sophisticated design, you will need some more sophisticated tools.

The tools I am using to build the dinghy are rather limited, as space and funds are equally limited. I am using:

  • Drill Press
  • Cordless Drill
  • Handsaw
  • Circular Saw
  • Bandsaw
  • Jointer
  • Sledge Hammer
  • Claw Hammer
  • Ball Peen Hammer
  • C Clamps
  • Screw Driver
  • No 4 Plane
  • Rabbet Plane
  • Jack Plane
  • Low Angle Block Plane
  • Block Plane
  • Wood Chisels
  • Rasp File
  • Coarse File
  • Bastard File
  • Fine File
  • Squares

This might seem like a rather long list, but with these tools you will be able to build a wooden dinghy with relative ease. The list provided is by no means a complete list, as there are tools I wish I had but am working without. 

A table saw would be a wonderful addition which would make partial thickness cuts easy to complete. A thickness planer would also help make the boards uniform in thickness across their length. A router would also be very useful for removing wood and reducing weight of the components in the dinghy. Lastly a bevel gauge would make it much easier to transfer angles from one area to another.

While these tools would make construction easier, they are by no means mandatory. Knowing how to use the tools you have well is more valuable than having many tools. A lot of the work can be carried out and completed with a limited armamentarium if proper experience is available to fill in the voids in missing tools.

I have seen carpenters resaw planks perfectly with a handsaw and no guides! I need a bandsaw to complete the same cut. It all depends on your skill and comfort level while working with the materials at hand.

Wrapping the Tiny

The front and back of the tiny house were wrapped before the wedding, now that we are back from the honeymoon, it is time to wrap the sides to move along with construction.

The sides are wrapped from bottom to top, with the top layers overlapping the lower layers. This causes a shingle effect which will help shed water and avoid water from getting under the tar paper and wetting the plywood.

If you store your tools and building supplies in the tiny house like I do, be sure you get them all out before you seal up the door with tar paper!

Now that the house is fully wrapped, battens will be placed on the walls to hold the tar paper in place while the windows are installed.

Current Projects

As you may know, I have a few projects running at the moment. Some are minor projects around the boat, others are major undertakings that consume all my spare time! 

The major projects are building the dinghy and building the tiny house. The minor projects are all the other boat preparations that need to be finished before we cast off the dock lines and head offshore. 

I know that some of you guys are more interested in certain aspects of the blog. Some readers are more focused on rigging and knots, others like the woodworking projects, and then others are in love with tiny houses. 

In an attempt to not bore any of you guys, I will be posting about the different topics alternating one each day. This way, if there is a topic that you are not particularly fond of, something more interesting to you will be posted tomorrow. 

As you may have noticed, I have trouble with "middle ground", and I work at the extremes. In my mind, the options are to segment the topics or power through each topic to completion. If we power through each topic, this blog would turn into a "boat building" blog for a while, then turn over to a "tiny house" blog for a while, followed by a "boat outfitting" blog. 

I feel that staggering the topics will keep everyone entertained as we work our way through the different projects. 

One thing is for certain though, next year we are casting off and the blog will be focusing more on the places we visit under sail and tips & tricks to make sailing easier. I really think that people motor their sailboats everywhere because they think that sailing is a lot of work. Hopefully, these tips and tricks will make sailing be less work and allow you to outfit and tweak your yacht yourself, saving you time and making sailing much easier for you.

For now, the topics will be staggered through the winter until these projects are finished up and ready for use. If you have any suggestions for how to order the post, let me know in the comments section down below!