Corrosion

Attaching to a Spar

It's really easy to go out and buy hardware that will attach to your spar, be it your boom or your mast, but it gets a bit complicated to attach them.

 

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Sure, you can just screw it onto the spar and continue on with your life! In a few months, that fancy new piece of hardware will fall off the spar and be covered in a white powder. Upon further inspection, you will notice that the holes you drilled are full of this white powder and you can't to get the screws to bite when you try to reattach it. 

What has happened is known as galvanic corrosion. It is the corrosion between two dissimilar metals, in this case, the aluminum of your spar and the stainless steel of your component and fasteners. The two metals are reacting and eating each other away like zombies in a horror movie! 

To avoid this horrible fate, you have a few options:

1. Only use like metals. 

2. Do not let dissimilar metals touch.  

 

Option 1 sounds pretty straight forward. If your spar is aluminum, so should be your components and fasteners. The problem with this plan is aluminum is not a very strong metal and an aluminum cheek block attached with aluminum pop rivets would sheer right off the side of your boom at the first sign of wind! 

This is why high strength components are always stainless steel. Even if the component is made out of aluminum, they will still recommend using stainless steel fasteners to achieve the needed sheer strength required to hold the component in place. 

Option 2 sounds like something out of a science fiction movie! How will you keep two items from touching if you are connecting them? The secret is to use barrier layers in between them, this way they sit up next to each other but will not touch one another. 

The cheek block shown in the top picture was attached to the boom with nothing separating the stainless from the aluminum. This was just to fit the piece and get all the holes drilled. With the holes drilled and the screws fitted, the entire assembly was removed to add the separation layer. 

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What we have here may look like a mess, but it is actually a collection of goodies that will keep the stainless from touching the aluminum. Teflon tape, also known as plumber's tape, is laid out over the entire back of the block. This will provide a base layer of separation between the two components.  

The next layer of separation is polysulfide that is piled into the middle of the block. This overfilled amount of material will ooze out over all the surfaces and provide an additional layer of separation and keep any water from getting in between the block and the spar. Polysulfide is great because the excess simply oozes out and is then allowed to cure. Once cured, it can be cut off for a clean, professional looking installation. 

The brown stuff in the corners is Lanocote. This stuff should really be called "wonder grease" because it does everything you could ever dream of, and it's non-toxic. Lanocote is just wool nap, the grease that sheep produce to keep their wool waterproof. This stuff is probably the only material that you can smear on with your finger and not worry about getting cancer from it in 20 years! It acts as a separating layer, anti-corrosive, and anti-galling.  Best of all, Lanocote is very inexpensive!

I put Lanocote in the corners since these are the only parts that are actually going to touch the spar. The rest of the plate is merely "close" but not in actual contact. The Lanocote also helps hold the teflon tape in place while the block is being positioned, that way it doesn't slip out of the way when you are not able to see it. 

All of these layers might sound wonderful, but there is still one serious fatal flaw in this setup. The screws themselves are stainless steel and will be in the most intimate of contacts with the spar. They have to be holding onto the aluminum or the block will fall off!  

The secret here is once again, Lanocote. Dipping the screws in the pot of Lanocote will pick up a lot of material that will coat all the surfaces of the screw. The Lanocote will get into all the nooks and crannies between the threads and down the shank, everywhere that the aluminum will also be in contact. 

When you drive the screw into the spar, the Lanocote will coat everything and provide all the necessary qualities needed to isolate the two metals while still allowing them to grab onto each other. This will prevent galvanic corrosion and keep all the metals happy, granting you a long service life with happy components.  

You might think that this must be too good to be true. How can such a wonderful material be inexpensive and easy to use?! Unlike other more expensive isolation creams and gels that can be purchased, Lanocote will stand up to the test of time. I have removed old components that were attached with synthetic isolators, such as Loctite, and found signs of galvanic corrosion beginning. On that same note, I have removed components that were installed 20 years ago and there were no signs of corrosion between the aluminum spar and stainless steel fasteners. The Lanocote was still moist, just like the day it was applied! 

If you ever need to attach two dissimilar metals, be sure to apply a liberal coating of Lanocote between them to extend their service life and give you peace of mind that all your boats metals are happy. 

Crevice Corrosion

Stainless steel is a wonderful metal that "stains less" than regular steel. Regular steel will begin to rust when left exposed to air and moisture as the iron in it will form a layer of iron oxide. Stainless steel will not rust as quickly because it contains more chromium which forms a protective layer of chromium oxide on the surface. This protective layer shields the rest of the metal from the corroding, giving stainless steel its wonderful qualities.

While stainless steel won't rust the way regular steel will, it does corrode in a distinct fashion: Crevice Corrosion. Crevice corrosion occurs in areas where the chromium oxide layer has broken down, usually in areas that are deprived of oxygen or very moist or exposed to acidic vapors.

Chainplates usually live in closed up and tight areas of the boat where crevice corrosion can begin. This in combination with the immense stress placed on these metal pieces can lead to fractures and breaks in the chainplate.

While crevice corrosion does show warning signs, they are often overlooked as they are miniscule. The most common sign of crevice corrosion are horizontal fracture lines running perpendicular to the loads placed on the chainplate.

One recommended method to find these fracture lines is to remove the metal fitting, wash it with acid and scrub it completely clean; then inspect the metal piece under a bright light with strong magnification. As you can imagine, this method is highly impractical!

The method I use is to look closely at the metal fitting with a strong light source aiming at it. I do not use magnification or any other fancy gadget. As a dentist I have a lot of experience with finding microscopic cracks in teeth. I am able to see these fractures with my naked eye, and you can too if you take the time to look closely at the metal in front of you. Imagine that there is a crack in the metal and you need to prove that it's not there. When you see it, you know it's there; alternatively, when you can't find it, you were proven wrong. With this frame of mind, you will be more focused on finding the smallest of flaws in the item you are inspecting. 

Do you see the fracture line?

Do you see the fracture line?

This is the same image but heavily zoomed and contrasted to accentuate the fracture line, along with some helpful arrows point to the crack. Can you see the crack line on the original image?

This is the same image but heavily zoomed and contrasted to accentuate the fracture line, along with some helpful arrows point to the crack. Can you see the crack line on the original image?

These cracks are tiny and tend to occur horizontally across the surface due to the combination of stress and corrosion. Eventually, they will lead to catastrophic failure!

Keep a close eye on your stainless steel fittings for these tiny cracks. The moment you see them, it is time for immediate replacement of that part. 

Galvanic Corrosion

When inspecting your spars, pay special attention to any fittings attached to the spars. Most spars these days are made of aluminum while the fittings are made of stainless steel. The dissimilar metals will lead to galvanic corrosion of the aluminum spar. 

While it is impossible to see under or inside a fitting connection, there are some clues that can alert you to an internal compromises. Galvanic corrosion will cause bubbles to appear around the fittings under the paint. 

Source: http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/rigging/BUBBLES.jpg

Source: http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/rigging/BUBBLES.jpg

When you look at your fittings, check to see if the paint is beginning to bubble. If you see bubbles, you need to address this area before the problem gets any worse! 

Another sign of corrosion is white dust emerging from your fittings. This dust is aluminum oxide, usually resulting from galvanic corrosion with stainless steel fittings. 

To avoid these issues, be sure to isolate the two metals. Plastic separators can be placed between the stainless steel and aluminum fittings and lanocote can be placed on the sides of screws and rivets to isolate them as well.

When you evaluate your rigging, take a close look at all fittings and make sure everything looks clean and perfect! Peeling paint is a preliminary sign that something might not be isolated.